U.S. Rangers successfully assault Point du Hoc on D-day

Point du Hoc is located between Omaha Beach and Utah Beach.  One takes Road 514 in the direction of Cherbourg and St Mere Eglise.  After a few miles, take Road 514a out to Point du Hoc.  There is a parking lot to leave your car with a short walk to the site.  The area is just the same as D-Day with bomb craters and destroyed defensive positions.  The Germans had built a number of casements holding large caliber artillery that could shell both landing beaches (Utah & Omaha).  German commanders knew that the Allied air force would subject the redoubt to massive bombing raids.  Just prior to the invasion, the German army removed the guns back to the safety of apple orchards and used large wooden poles placed in the casements to fool Allied intelligence.

U.S. Rangers were assigned the task of assaulting the cliff at Point du Hoc to destroy the guns.  After suffering significant casualties, the Rangers reached the top of the 100' cliff and found out that the guns had been removed.  The Rangers searched further and found the guns.  They destroyed the guns with Thermite grenades that fused the operating mechanisms.  The commander of the Rangers was Lt. Col. James E. Rudder from Texas.  After the war, he would serve as the president of Texas A&M and would preside over a major transformation of that university.  The following are personal pictures:

Picture of the Cliff at Point du Hoc

German Bunker

 

Bomb Marked Landscapes

Omaha Beach and the U.S. Cemetary

I am starting the tour of Normandy at Omaha Beach and the American cemetery at St. Laurent sur Mer.  The cemetery is located only a few miles from Bayeux.  Purchase a good Michelin map to assist in your travel.  If still available, I recommend Michelin Map 102 which is a historical map with the name of "Battle of Normandy."  You might check online to see if one is for sale.

The cemetery is open all year except for Christmas and New Years day.  Hours during the summer run from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.  During the winter, the closing hour is 5 p.m.  I recommend starting your visit at the Interpretation Center.  The Center presents oral histories by WWII veterans who participated in the landing along with artifacts given to the Center.  There is no charge for admission but visitors must go through a security check.

The cemetery is the resting place for 9,387 military personnel.  One notable person buried here is General Teddy Roosevelt,Jr., son of President Teddy Roosevelt.  Only a minority of these individuals were killed on D-Day with the rest killed in subsequent fighting in the Normandy Region.

For additional help, please google "American Battle Monuments Commission" which directs you to other American cemeteries in Europe

 Pictures of the Cemetery

A small part of the impressive memorial at the start of the Cemetery.

 Overlook of Omaha Beach

You can walk down to the beach and look back toward the bluff and see the challenge faced by the soldiers during the invasion.  The German defenders had preplanned the fire zone with their machine guns.  Their MG-42 machine gun had an extremely high rate of fire posing a real danger to the invading troops.

Row upon Row of White Crosses and Stars of David

Normandy Travel Tips

Normandy is a picturesque part of France.  The countryside is made up of many small villages and farms.  The terrain is generally flat and is laced with many waterways.  Over the centuries, local farmers planted hedges to separate their fields.  This part of Normandy was called the bocage country (Basse-Normandie).  The primary farm products of this region are apples (juice made into cider and further distilled into Calvados) and dairy products (camenbert and other cheeses).  A  great stopping point for tourists is the dairy cooperative at Isigny sur Mer).  After a presentation by plant officials, you can purchase a soft-service ice cream cone at the cooperative store.

The sea coast from Quistreham to St. Mere-Eglise is generally comprised of flat sandy beaches with significant cliffs at Pointe du Hoc.  Other cities and villages will be mentioned in subsequent postings.

You can travel to Normandy by train or rent a car in Paris for the approximate three hour drive over toll road #13.  If you are going by train, you go to Gare St. Lazare in Paris and later disembark at Bayeux.  A car can be rented in Bayeux.  I highly recommend a rental car to fully enjoy your tour.  Check with a recent travel guide for accommodations.  You should allow yourself at least three or four days to appreciate the visit.

Day Trip to Portsmouth, U.K.

I recommend a day trip to Portsmouth from London.  Portsmouth is the historic base for the Royal Navy and a key embarkation point for the D-Day invasion on June 6, 1944.  You take a Southwest train from Waterloo station to Portsmouth Harbor Station.  After arriving, I suggest a guided tour of HMS Victory, the flagship for Lord Nelson at the Napoleonic period engagement at Trafalgar in 1805.  He was shot by a French Navy sharpshooter and died during the battle.  You can learn a great deal about the life of British sailors during this period of time.

Another stop is the new museum holding the remnants of the Mary Rose, a Tudor period warship.  The ship was raised from the sea bed, preserved, and placed on display.

The last stop is the D-Day museum located a short distance from the above sites.  A cab is recommended for travelers to save time and energy.   In the museum is a detailed embroidery of events and personalities in operation "Overlord".  A young artist was retained to draw the necessary pictures illustrating the invasion.  The staff and students of the Royal School of Needlework (located at Hampton Court Palace) hand embroidered the various picture panels.

Portsmouth D-Day Museum

WW II Air War Over Western Europe

Air War Over Western Europe

The Imperial War Museum has a branch located at Duxford airfield near Cambridge, U.K.  Visitors can travel from King's Cross station in London to Cambridge.  Check with information on arrival for a local bus to take you to the museum.  Duxford is oriented to the air war in WW II.  Besides restored aircraft, the facility also has a building displaying armored land vehicles.  The airfield has a restoration building for military aircraft.

The U.S Army Air Force in the European Theater of Operations had casualties (killed and wounded) of 62,021 in the air campaign.  The general strategy was for the Americans to bomb during the day with the Royal Air Force conducting night operations.  Without long range fighter support in the initial bombing phase, American losses were significant.  Once the new P-51 mustang was refitted with detachable fuel tanks and the Merlin Rolls Royce engine, losses were reduced.    Fighters could go all the way to the target with the bombers.

It was critical for the Allies to buildup air assets prior to the Normandy invasion.  French railways, rail marshaling yards, and beach fortifications were targets of opportunity.  A trip to Duxford is important in understanding the contribution made by Allied air forces.  A couple of my pictures from Duxford.


 Nose Art

 

Workhorse of the American Bomber Force
 

Western Europe Between 1918 and 1939

The seeds of World War II were sown from the very end of World War I with the signing of the Versailles Treaty.  The German Army had not been defeated in the field.  The German General Staff was intact after returning to Berlin.  Many junior officers felt betrayed by the politicians of the fledgling Weimar Republic.  The reparation payments and other treaty concessions required of Germany would be onerous with the advent of the Great Depression.  The messy nature of democracy led many German citizens to wish for a strong leader to lead them out of their economic problems which included hyperinflation. .

Great Britain experienced the loss of many young men and the economic disruption caused by the large expenditures of WW I.  The British public did not want to fight another war.  This reluctance was probably the reason for Chamberlain's questionable Munich Agreement with Hitler.

France had much damage to repair from the war.  A sizable French Army was maintained along with making a large investment in the Maginot Line which was to block future invasions from the East.  Little investment was made in new weapons, tactics, and communications since 1918.  The failure to modernize the French Army led to the 1940 disaster.

Hitler moved into power with the death of General Von Hindenburg in 1933.  He embarked on a vast public works program to put unemployed Germans to work.  One project was the building of the 1936 Olympic complex.  Below are some pictures of my recent visit to Berlin.  

Germany is a relatively small geographic area with a large population.  A factor in the start of WW II was the desire of German leadership to acquire additional farmland in the East.  The attack on Poland started in the early hours of September 1, 1939.  Great Britain and France declared war on Germany.

Olympic Complex

 The center stand of the picture where the Nazi leadership viewed the Olympics.  The roof over the stand was not added until after the war.

Well Kept Pitch

Jesse Owens

The stadium is in excellent condition and used for a variety of events.  The Berlin football club plays its matches there.  I understand that right after the war ended, the British Army used the stadium as headquarters.  I recommend a visit to the facility.  A short ride on the S-Bahn gets you there.

Conclusion of the conflict: 1917-1918

1917 was a pivotal year in WW I.  Little movement along the Western Front occurred.  The French Army suffered a mutiny after suffering significant casualties with little gain in territory.  General Petain was put in charge of restoring morale to the French Army.

The United States entered the war on April 6, 1917.  America was not prepared for a war using the new technology of large calibre artillery and machine guns.  U.S. soldiers were fresh and full of enthusiasm but had little knowledge of trench warfare.  French Army veterans taught the new soldiers on trench warfare.

My last stop on my WW I tour was the large American Cemetery in the Meuse-Argonne region of France not far from Verdun.  The cemetery holds the remains of 14,246 American soldiers killed in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive. The cemetery is located in the area where Sgt. Alvin York captured a large number of prisoners and earned the Medal of Honor.

You need a rental car to gain the most benefit from a visit  to the region.  The cemetery is open all days except for January 1 and December 25.  The grounds open at 9 a.m. and closes at 5 p.m.  The village is Romagne-sous-Montfaucon located north of Clermont en-Argonne.  Take road D946 and then D998 to the village.  Watch for signs directing you to the cemetery.  Here are some snapshots to consider:

Grave of Freddie Stowers

 Corporal Stowers, a black soldier, was killed in action on September 28, 1918.  It took 73 years for his family to receive the Medal of Honor from President George H.W. Bush.


Visitor Center at the Meuse-Argonne Cemetery

There is a guest book to sign and the staff can assist family in locating a grave.


Vast Expanse of the Cemetery

My rental car in the foreground.  I was the only visitor during my stay.

Picture from the tree lined road

Another reminder of the cost of war.  


This concludes my touring of WW I sites.  My tour only covered a limited number of sites.  There are many more locations to visit.  You can sign up for formal tours or strike out on your own.  Google WW I tours and see what comes up.  I will be starting my WW II touring after returning from a trip to a college reunion.


 

Back from Europe

Had a productive trip to London, Bayeux in Normandy, and Berlin.  I will continue with WWI within the week.  One stop on the trip was the village of Halbe southeast of Berlin.  Took a series of photos at the German cemetary that holds approximately 18000 sets remains resulting from the German attempt to stop the advancing Russians in 1945.

Taking the offensive in the Somme Valley: July 1, 1916

At the start of World War I, Great Britain possessed only a small professional army.  Early losses in the initial invasion in 1914 left this force greatly weakened.  It was essential that Britain rebuild its forces and to convert their industry to wartime production.  1915 was a key year in preparing defencive positions along their share of the Western Front along with rebuilding their army and logistical support systems.  The high command of Great Britain and France planned their first major offencive action of the war.  France was already involved in a major action at Verdun.  July 1, 1916, was the date set for commencing operations against the German lines.

After a lengthy artillery bombardment, The troops moved forward with a terrible loss of life.  Approximately 60,000 soldiers were either dead or wounded on the first day.  An example was the assault of German lines at Beaumont-Hamel by the Newfoundland Canadian Regiment.  According to one source, out of 780 men, only 110 survived more than 20 minutes after leaving the safety of their trench.  The Germans had survived the bombardment in their well fortified positions and easily countered the advancing force.

It is well worth the visit to the memorial located near Beaumont-Hamel.  The following is a sample of my pictures from the location:

Actual trench in the area where the Newfoundland regiment started their advance:

Memorial to the Newfoundland Regiment

German Cemetery in the Somme Valley.  The irony is significant when thinking of WW II.  See the grave for a German soldier noted by the Star of David

This is one of the numerous British cemeteries located in the Somme Valley.  During WW I, it was the policy of the British army to bury soldiers where they fell.

More will be covered in a later posting.  I am off on more battlefield trekking over the next month and a half.  I will post again about the middle of August.  My next destination is the village of Halbe located southeast of Berlin.  A conscript army of old men, depleted regular army units, and young boys attempted to stop the Russian advance on Berlin.  They were not successful

Verdun: German attempt to break the stalemate on the Western Front

The German high command knew that continued stalemate would further hurt the ability of the German economy to sustain military operations.  The British Royal Navy had blocked the North Sea shipping lanes via a blockade effectively shutting off supplies of food and other material to German industry and the population.  A  decisive blow was needed to hasten the end of the war and relief from the blockade.  Verdun was a road block on the road to Paris.

The attack commenced on February 21, 1916, with a massive artillery barrage (some 2,000,000 shells).  The fire was directed on French fortifications.  Fort Douaumont was left in ruins.  The French Army continued to resist by being supplied with supplies and replacement soldiers down a single road named the "voie sacree" (sacred way).  Verdun was a killing ground of the first order with approximately 500,000 killed on both sides.  The German forces were not successful in capturing Verdun.

I have visited Verdun three times since 1991.  The following are personal photographs of those visits:

French cemetery in front of the Douaumont Ossuary

Douaumont Ossuary Tower

The first floor of the Tower has plaques memorialising every Department of France.  Under the floor is the Ossuary holding unidentified remains of soldiers.  The bones can be seen through small windows in the basement.  Out of respect, I did not take pictures of the remains.

Memorial to defenders of Verdun

Memorial Museum at Verdun

 

A visit to the museum is well worth the admission charge.

Understanding World War I requires a visit to Verdun.  I recommend a rental car to gain the most from your visit.  You can take a train from Gare de L'est (Paris) changing at Chalons sur Marne for Verdun.  Check with the station information booth for exact instructions.

During the summer months, the Tourist Bureau in Verdun offers guided tours of the battlefield.  Check ahead on the availability of the bus tours.  Here is the link:

http://www.en.verdun-tourisme.com/

1915--A year for stumbles and stalemate

Both sides strengthed their defensive fortifications during 1915 and realized that frontal infantry assaults were proving to be a difficult strategy on the Western front.   1915 saw the first use of poison gas to gain a tactical advantage in trench warfare.  Italy entered the war on the side of Britain and France and engaged in mountain warfare with the Austrians and Germans.  Little progress was made on the Italian front.

Britain along with thousands of Commonwealth soldiers attempted to take control of the Dardanelles with the attack at Gallipoli.  The Turkish army held its own and the British had to retire from the battlefield in January, 1916.

I have not visited Gallipoli but encourage others to visit.  Besides World War I sites, there are other ancient ruins to visit with historical significance.  You should seek advice from travel guides for transportation choices and accommodations.

Commencement of hostilities in August, 1914

Elements of the German army crossed into Belgium late in the afternoon on August 4, 1914.  The small Belgium army proved no match for the well equipped and motivated German forces.  The British Expeditionary Force and French army was no more successful in stopping the initial advance.  The German army finally turned left near Amiens moving toward Paris before being stopped at the 1st battle of the Marne.

By December, 1914, the front became stalemated with both sides digging in with little movement in either direction.  What was expected to be a short conflict turned into a construction project of building complex trench systems and soldier billets for hundreds of thousands.  Large casualties suffered in the initial invasion caused commanders on both sides to reconsider strategy.  The introduction of modern killing technology  (machine guns and large caliber artillery pieces) made open field movement highly hazardous.

1915 proved to be a period of little change in the 400 mile front line from Belgium to Switzerland.  My next blog will move back to the Somme Valley and the allied attempt to break the stalemate on July 1, 1916.  I recommend a book published in 2011 by Peter Barton titled:  The Somme: The Unseen Panoramas.  It is an excellent reference source for those who want to go further in their study.

Somme Valley: Understanding the geography and history

The Somme Valley is located north of Paris in the Department of Picardie.  Picardie has some of the most productive farms in France.  The geography is characterized by gently rolling hills, rivers (the Somme and Canche), and wetlands.  The existence of a high water table and drainage issues would prove to be a problem for the opposing sides.  Much older history should have been an indicator of future problems with mud and water.  Henry V  on October 25, 1415, with 6000 archers and a small group of foot soldiers defeater a much larger French force at Azincourt, France.  After a soaking rain, the advancing, heavily armored French knights on large mounts became bogged down in the mud becoming easy targets for the English and their longbows.

Just a thought to consider.  Once the Somme Valley became a battlefield in 1914, agricultural production was dramatically reduced.  The inability to grow wheat and other crops led to increased imports from the United States.  The demand for food, especially wheat, led to the plowing of U.S. grasslands in Kansas, Colorado, Texas, and Oklahoma.  The frenzy of growing wheat to meet European demand would contribute to the Dust Bowl conditions of the 1930s.

For those wanting to tour the Somme Valley, a car is essential.  You should consult travel guides or the French Tourist Office for accommodations in the region.  I used the village of Peronne as a base for my travels.  Peronne also has a modern museum devoted to World War I in the Somme Valley.

WW I Museum in Meaux France

Tired of Paris shopping and need a day off from art appreciation go see a new museum located east of the city in the village of Meaux.  Meaux is in the Marne Valley and not far from Euro Disnyland.  A regional train frequently leaves from Gare de l'Est train station.  After arriving at the Meaux station, you purchase bus tickets and wait at the designated quai for bus M6.  After a short ride, you arrive at the museum (Le Musee de la Grande Guerre).  The highest adult admission ticket currently is 10 euros (subject to change).

Meaux is in the region where the first Battle of the Marne took place.  The German army was on the move to Paris.  The Germans had made tremendous geographic gains since the start of hostilities.  The pace of advance had been exhausting and they were at the end of a  very long supply line.  The ability of British and French forces to consolidate and stop the German advance led to both sides digging in with the start of trench warfare.  An interesting story was the movement of reinforcing French troops from Paris to the Marne via taxis.  An original taxi is exhibited along with this 1914 version of a French army communication center (see the following image).

The picture is a truck converted to a carrier for messenger pigeons.  The museum has approximately 50000 items and documents.  This is a worthwhile visit for young people and interested adults.  The museum is closed Tuesday and specific holidays (New Year, Christmas, and May 1st).  For those staying at Euro Disneyland, check with the hotel concierge for transportation suggestions.

The next several posts will cover the Battle of the Somme (July 1, 1916).




 

Initial Post

Having retired as an accounting professor after 38 years, I decided to pursue my other  interest which is military history.  My first year of retirement was spent studying military history in the United Kingdom.  Prior to retirement, I had traveled to these sites:  Somme Valley, Verdun, Meuse Argonne, Normandy, Berlin, and Iwo Jima.  The purpose of my blog is to assist travelers in trekking battlefields and understanding these past events.

My first focus will be on World War I.  There is a  recent resurgence of interest in the "War to end all wars".  After the Versailles treaty, it is generally understood that the treaty terms were a factor in causing World War II.  The large post-war reparation payments required of Germany made it difficult for the Weimar Republic to recover economically.  Coupled with the Great Depression, the Weimar Republic experiment ended when the Nazis took power in 1933. 

The impact of World War I on Russia was significant.  The Romanov family was removed from power and replaced by a communist party headed by Lenin.  This government structure lasted until 1989. 

At first glance, it would seem that the United Kingdom was a clear victor in World War I.  However, the cost of military operations in economic resources and human life would later influence the fighting in WW II.  Britain had partially financed the war with the sale of foreign investments.  One source had estimated that by 1918 foreign investments held by British citizens and institutions had been reduced by 20%.  More ominous for the future was the loss of an entire generation of young people by Great Britain and the Commonwealth.  The taking of casualties in World War II by the forces became an issue for senior British commanders harking back to the slaughter on the Western front.

My next blog will review the new World War I museum located east of Paris in  Meaux France.